Modern winemaking has long evolved beyond the familiar discussions of the past. Today, we live in an era where more outstanding wines are being produced than ever before, and the history of wine is being rewritten year after year. We grew accustomed to the grandeur of Bordeaux wines, which are now facing challenging times under the weight of their own prestige and speculative demand. For winemakers around the world working with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux has always represented the benchmark. However, influenced by advancing knowledge in viticulture and winemaking, and driven by the perfectionism typical of ambitious, wealthy individuals, California's Napa Valley has not just approached Bordeaux's level—it has long since surpassed it. It used to be common to criticize these wines for their excessive fruitiness, concentration, ripeness, and intensity. Then, Bordeaux tried to make wines similar to Napa's. But nothing really came of it, primarily due to differences in traditions and approaches.
The French simply lacked the perfectionism, the financial resources, and the flexibility in the regulatory aspects tied to the appellation system.
As a result, Napa wines today have surpassed Bordeaux wines precisely on these parameters. They are crafted with the full force of French expertise, but in a way that is not permitted in Bordeaux itself. Such is the reality.
As for the wines from Realm Cellars, made by Scott Becker, they are a clear confirmation of the heights that can be achieved today with Cabernet Sauvignon. He crafts this particular wine from the To Kalon vineyard, which belongs to Andy Beckstoffer. This man's biography deserves its own post; his contribution to the development of Napa winemaking is impressive. And as for Realm wines, they represent the highest level of contemporary global winemaking.
Text and Photo: Greg Somm
