Text by: Greg Somm
Here is what one can respect the British for: even in difficult economic times, they try to maintain a high standard for the level of wines they sell in wine venues, and for the huge number of wine venues that have been operating for decades. This is a very clear indicator of the development of wine culture.
I first visited Compagnie back in 2017, and since then this place has never disappointed in its approach to wine. The food is the simplest, but incredibly delicious. Wine prices are lower than in most London wine venues, and the selection on the wine list makes your eyes run wild. Everything most current and rare is collected. You should come to such places with a group, otherwise it is difficult to try more than one bottle.
But I could not deny myself the pleasure of the Champagne made by Justine Boxler and François Petit! La Rogerie is the top of Champagne for me at the moment. Considering that this is a very young estate, new wines appear every year. And Bourg Sud is last year's premiere. An assemblage from the southern part of Avize from the 2021 vintage, with fermentation in barrels and subsequent aging in them before bottling and secondary fermentation. For all the obvious simplicity in approach, the wine turned out to be super level! Blindly, this is Salon and Krug combined. I really like the approach of these guys to vinification. Each cuvée possesses the crystalline purity of varietal aromas and richness on the palate, and when you can unequivocally understand that this is excellently grown grape!
For me, this is the main criterion for a great wine without any tricks. In their approach, they are original and do not seek to copy anyone. Both are from winemaking families with great traditions. And this is a case where the experience of generations is transformed into powerful potential, contributing to development and reaching a new level! Another interesting thing happened with this wine the next day. The half-bottle that I took with me, a day later, finally convinced me of their mastery! The purest sweet pastry aroma against the background of ripe garden fruits is simply stunning! And the beautifully integrated carbonation turned the taste of this wine into a refreshing thing!
I continued with the red from Charles Lachaux. To understand his level, you need to try many of his wines starting from the 2012-2013 vintages, when Charles began to participate more and more in the creation of wines together with his father Pascal. His pursuit of perfection led to him no longer using barrels for aging his wines starting in 2021. But honestly, this was predictable, as the barrel in his case only performs the function of micro-oxygenation of the wine, and should not add anything to the purest aromas from the grapes. 2021 gave fantastic wines for all talented winemakers, but Charles produced not just wine, but a real feast of elegance and finesse.
There are already many winemakers today who use a similar approach when creating their wines, but such a level of wines as Charles made is still available only to a few. Blindly, I would easily compare his wines to DRC, the nerve is the same. Charles's wine possesses impeccable balance, volume, and depth.
