Wine Critic
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Jean-Yves Péron Côtillon des Dames 2023 is a highly distinctive natural orange wine from Savoie, built for texture, depth and aromatic intensity. It is one of Péron’s signature cuvées, showing the kind of mountain purity and artisanal character that has made him a reference name in Alpine natural wine.
Jean-Yves Péron works in Savoie, in the Conflans / Albertville area, with organic and biodynamic farming on steep, mineral soils. Côtillon des Dames is made from Jacquère and Altesse, and in some listings Roussanne is also included; the wine is positioned as a Vin de France / Savoie orange wine with very low-intervention cellar work and no added sulfur.
Appearance: Deep straw to amber-gold, with a naturally textured, slightly cloudy look typical of skin-contact wines.
Nose: Exotic fruit, citrus peel, white flowers, orchard fruit, spice and a pronounced mineral/stony edge.
Palate: Deep, mineral and textured, with good volume, fresh acidity and a layered skin-contact grip that keeps the wine structured rather than heavy.
Finish: Long, dry and saline, with aromatic persistence and a clean, slightly phenolic edge.
The wine is made with whole clusters and semi-carbonic or skin-contact maceration, then aged on lees in oak for around 12 months; several references note no added sulfites. It is a natural orange wine in the true sense: tactile, fragrant and mineral, with a style that balances mountain freshness and a more savory, textural frame.
Côtillon des Dames is a strong buy for customers who want a serious natural orange wine with identity and depth rather than a novelty bottle. Its combination of alpine terroir, artisan credibility and limited production gives it real appeal on a curated list, especially for natural-wine buyers and restaurants looking for something distinctive.
It works very well with shellfish, sashimi, grilled fish, roast poultry, squash, root vegetables and dishes with miso, curry or gentle spice. Its texture and salinity also make it an excellent partner for aged cheeses and mushroom-based plates.
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