Wine Critic
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Vin de la Communaute Europeenne
Jean-Yves Péron I Vicini Cortese 2023 is a vivid, natural white/orange wine from Savoie made from Cortese sourced in Piemonte. It is light on its feet but serious in character, with fresh citrus, white-fruit lift and a distinctly mineral, mountain-driven personality.
The “I Vicini” range is Péron’s négociant project with growers in northern Italy, giving him access to Piemonte varieties and a broader transalpine expression. For Cortese, the style is very much about purity and terroir: hand-harvested fruit, long skin contact, and élevage in foudre produce a wine that feels both Alpine and Piedmontese at once.
Appearance: Pale gold to deep straw, with a lightly textured, natural-wine look.
Nose: Lemon, white peach, quince, orange peel, honeysuckle, mountain flowers and a saline, stony edge.
Palate: Fresh, linear and expressive, with juicy citrus and white fruit, subtle skin-contact grip and a precise mineral backbone.
Finish: Dry, saline and persistent, with citrus zest, white flowers and a clean, lightly phenolic lift.
The 2023 Cortese undergoes about 15 days of whole-cluster carbonic maceration, then ferments in stainless steel before aging for around 12 months in a 34 hl foudre. Several references describe it as a natural wine with no added sulfur, and the overall style is fresh, energetic and textural rather than oxidative or heavy.
This is an excellent buy for customers looking for a distinctive, serious natural white with a story behind it. It has enough freshness for early drinking, but also enough structure and texture to hold interest over the medium term, making it especially attractive for natural-wine lists and adventurous collectors.
It pairs well with shellfish, grilled white fish, roast chicken, asparagus, artichokes and goat cheese. The saline, citrus-driven profile also works nicely with sashimi, vegetable tempura and lightly spiced dishes.
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