Wine Critic
This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Clos Mogador “Vinya Classificada” 2022 is a powerful yet increasingly refined single‑vineyard red from Gratallops, Priorat DOCa, blending mainly Garnacha and Cariñena with smaller amounts of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Critic tasting note: (2022 vintage)
"Their single-vineyard 2022 Clos Mogador, they flagship wine, was produced with a blend of grapes, mostly Garnacha and Cariñena but also some Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (less and less, as they are regrafting most of them). It fermented with 40% full clusters and matured in 2,000- and 2,500-liter oak foudres; some are old barriques, to avoid having too much new oak, and some lots finish aging in concrete to complete some 20 months. They have implemented some changes, moving toward larger volumes, abandoning the barriques and moving to foudre (with the low volumes in 2024, the wine will be only in foudre). It has a very Mediterranean nose with plenty of dry hay and straw notes, the classical wet slate notes, very Priorat too, and it has a round palate and very fine, chalky tannins. It's serious and harmonious and feels relaxed, without any excess. It comes in at 14% alcohol with 5.4 grams of acidity and a bone-dry finish. None of the 2022s showed excess heat or ripeness. The alcohol is contained and integrated, and the wines are balanced and harmonious but with a more Mediterranean profile. 35,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2024.
Clos Mogador is the winery from the Barbier family in Gratallops in Priorat, where they have 40 hectares of vineyards and produce 60,000 to 65,000 bottles of wine per year. In the last few years, they have had to be creative to be able to continue producing wines with energy and balance, given the challenging weather of recent years. They have started to use direct pressings, employ carbonic maceration of the grapes from south-facing plots or varieties more sensitive to drought, play with the blends to achieve more freshness and use less oxidative materials for the élevage.
This time, I tasted with Christian Barber, who has also started his own personal project (Christian Barber i Gisela, reviewed separately). He's in charge of the vineyards and explained the changes they've been implementing to adapt to the new climate conditions, such as using cover crops, harvesting earlier, working with more indigenous varieties, fermenting with some full clusters and some carbonic maceration, etc. He works in regenerative agriculture and has suffered a lot in the last couple of years because of the lack of rain. The vineyards are certified organic, and they also have a biodynamic certification from the Regenerative Viticulture Alliance, but for now, the bottles don't carry the seal. Yields have been abysmal for Clos Mogador in recent years: in 2023, they produced 50% of the normal volume, and in 2024, they produced half of what they produced in 2023! But the wines are as good as ever or even better!" - Robert Parker The Wine Advocate, Reviewed by: Luis Gutiérrez (97/100)
"Style ,complex, spicy, juicy. Colour ,deep cherry. Aroma ,ripe fruit, dried herbs, creamy oak. Flavour ,ripe fruit, spicy, round tannins. " - Guia Penin (95/100)
"The oak spices are still a bit prominent, but that doesn’t hinder its expression of complexity and impressive depth. Graphite, roasted spices and a panoply of dried herbs and sweet cherries. It is plump, almost full-bodied and layered, with firm, fine tannins and a lengthy finish. Drink from 2025." - James Suckling
What is the blend and origin?
-
Type: Dry red wine
-
Appellation: Priorat DOCa, Catalonia, Spain
-
Vineyard status: Vinya Classificada (single classified vineyard)
-
Grape varieties: Approx. 49% Garnacha, 29% Cariñena, 16% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabernet decreasing over time as vines are regrafted).
-
Farming: Fully organic, on steep slate (“llicorella”) slopes around Gratallops.
How is Clos Mogador 2022 made?
-
Harvest: Hand‑picked fruit from old, low‑yielding vines on rocky terraces.
-
Fermentation: With about 40% whole clusters, long maceration; focus on freshness and gentle extraction.
-
Aging: Around 18–20 months total, mainly in large 2,000–2,500 L French oak foudres, with some lots in older barriques and concrete to limit new‑oak impact.
-
Key metrics: About 14% alcohol, 5.4 g/L total acidity, bone‑dry finish.
How does the 2022 vintage taste?
-
Color: Deep, dark red to opaque purple, lightening slightly at the rim.
-
Aromas: Rich red and black fruits (sour black cherry, plum, blood orange), garrigue herbs, dried herbs, cigar smoke, baking spice, wet slate, graphite and Mediterranean dry hay notes.
-
Palate: Intense but smooth and velvety; round, chewy yet fine chalky tannins, elevated acidity and a long, mineral, iron‑tinged finish.
-
Style: Complex, spicy and juicy, with contained alcohol and no excess ripeness; serious and harmonious, showing a very Mediterranean profile with good freshness.
How long can you age it and what does it pair with?
-
Aging potential: Up to about 20 years from vintage; 2022 is expected to evolve beautifully in bottle thanks to its structure and acidity.
-
Serving: Decant 1–2 hours; serve at 16–18°C in a large red‑wine glass.
-
Food pairings: Catalan fuet and meaty tapas, roast chicken, grilled lamb, rich stews and other hearty meat dishes that match its concentration and savory mineral notes.