Domaine Labet Cotes du Jura Les Varrons Pinot Noir 2023

Domaine Labet Cotes du Jura Les Varrons Pinot Noir 2023

Domaine Labet is run by Alain Labet and his son Julien Labet who produces also his own wines with the name Julien Labet.

Domaine Labet Côtes du Jura Les Varrons Pinot Noir 2023 is a deep, intense red from old vines on a small east-facing parcel at 260–280 m altitude, showing the precision, structure and aromatic complexity that define the Labet style. It is a serious, ageworthy Jura Pinot with real density, bright acidity and a clear, almost mapped expression of terroir.

Site and identity

Les Varrons is a small Pinot Noir vineyard planted in 1985–1986, on clay-limestone soils typical of the Labet holdings. The site’s east exposure and altitude help preserve freshness and aromatic lift, while the old vines and low yields give the wine concentration and depth.

Technical tasting note

Appearance: Elegant ruby robe, clear and relatively light in color but with a dense core.

Nose: Small red berries (redcurrant, cherry, raspberry), pivoine, cranberry, subtle spice, fine grilled and chalky touches, and aromatic herbal notes.

Palate: Airy touch on entry but with underlying firmness; complex, juicy red fruit, vibrant acidity and fine, present tannins. The 2023 needs aeration to fully open, then deploys notable energy and aromatic intricacy.

Finish: Long, fresh and mouthwatering, with lingering red fruit, spice and a mineral, slightly chalky echo.

Winemaking and style

Vinification is without inputs, with native yeasts and patient oak aging, in line with the house’s low-intervention philosophy. The style is a distinctly Jura take on Pinot Noir: lighter in color but deep in flavor, with bright acidity, aromatic purity and a mineral, almost “mapped” expression of the site. Despite the pale robe, the 2023 reds from Labet are described as deep wines that unfold slowly in the glass.

Buying outlook

Les Varrons 2023 is a top buy for customers who want a serious, ageworthy Jura Pinot Noir with real identity and energy. The vintage is described as needing air to relax, but once opened it shows excellent intensity, complexity and length, making it compelling both for mid-term cellaring and for adventurous, terroir-focused wine lists.

Food pairing

It pairs beautifully with roast poultry, duck, guinea fowl, young game birds and light game dishes. It also works very well with Comté, mushroom-based cuisine, grilled meats and refined Burgundian-style dishes where acidity and mineral cut can balance richness.