Wine Critic
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Jacques LASSAIGNE 'Autour de Minuit' Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2018
Jacques Lassaigne “Autour de Minuit” Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2018 is a singular, zero‑dosage Chardonnay from old vines in Montgueux, aged three years in Vin Jaune barrels (from Jean‑François Ganevat) and then three years on lees. The result is a full‑bodied, tension‑filled Champagne with a clear oxidative, umami signature layered over bright fruit and chalky minerality.
Origin and concept
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100% Chardonnay from old vines (around 60+ years) on chalk in Montgueux, notably from parcels such as Les Paluets / Grandes Côtes.
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Made in collaboration with Jean‑François Ganevat, using his Vin Jaune barrels for a three‑year élevage, followed by three years in bottle on lees.
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Brut Nature (zero dosage), native yeasts, no fining or filtration, minimal SO₂ only at the press.
Tasting note
Appearance
Medium gold with a bright core and a fine, persistent mousse.
Nose
Ripe apple, white plum and candied lemon intertwined with hints of fresh walnuts, toast and a subtle oxidative nuance from the Vin Jaune casks. Tropical fruit and sweet spices sit alongside nutty, brioche and light oxidative notes.
Palate
Full‑bodied, creamy and enveloping yet driven by strong tension. Orchard and tropical fruit are wrapped in spice, nuttiness and savory complexity, all carried by vibrant acidity and a pronounced chalky mineral backbone.
Finish
Exceptionally long, saline and umami‑rich, with lingering citrus peel, nuts and stock/bouillon notes, and a very precise, dry close.
Style and aging
This is a complex, traditional‑style Blanc de Blancs with a Jura Vin Jaune imprint: oxidative nuance, nuts and savory depth on a very mineral Champagne frame. It is already impressive but clearly built for long aging, where the oxidative, nutty and saline elements should integrate further over 10+ years.
Food pairing
Ideal with shellfish, crab, lobster, turbot or sole with beurre blanc, and rich seafood or poultry in cream and mushroom sauces. It will also shine with Comté, aged hard cheeses, and dishes that can match its umami, nutty complexity (truffled eggs, veal or poultry in Vin Jaune‑style sauces).
