Wine Critic
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Roger SABON Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Le Secret des Sabon, Rhone 2017
Critic tasting note: (2017 vintage)
"With 95% of the grapes being Grenache sourced primarily from old vines on sandy soils, this is an irresistibly fleshy yet pure-fruited sip packed with raspberry and boysenberry goodness. It's a thrilling, mouthdrenching red shaded by whispers of earth, sweet spice and bramble. Tannins are chalky but have surprising grip in youth. A powerful wine that needs a bit of time to meld but should approach peak by 2023 and age beautifully. Anna Lee C. Iijima" - Wine Enthusiast (97/100)
Robert Parker The Wine Advocate
Almost all Grenache from two old-vine parcels, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon has morphed during its élevage in oak tank to reveal a darker side. While last year it was all red fruit and roses, this year it shows more plum, licorice, cola and cocoa. It remains wonderfully full-bodied yet light in feel, framed by firm tannins but also creamy and rich on the mid-palate, offering an array of conflicting sensations that emerge harmonious on the long finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.
This benchmark estate continues to turn out a stable of excellent wines under the stewardship of Didier Negron. "In '18, we had a very good September—no rain, 30 degrees—and the result is interesting," he said. In his opinion, the estate was lucky to have a small crop in 2017, as it was all the vines could sustain under the dry conditions of that summer. The key, said Negron, is "the need to adapt to vintage conditions. Sixteen, '17, '18, show it's not possible to have a recipe here. It's important to keep a good balance of acidity and freshness to avoid too high levels of alcohol."
- Reviewed by: Joe Czerwinski (96/100)
