The best set in a very long time – there is simply no other way to put it. Wine is not just grapes; it is the meaning and essence of a winemaker’s life. Wine is not merely the result of technical actions in the cellar, but the quintessence of a vigneron’s sensations, filtered through the prism of their work in the vineyard. All of this together is what we call terroir – something we now keep trying to reduce to talent and experience, while behind it stand years of work, feeling, and an intimate understanding of wine.
I do not know who else can make wines like Anselme Selosse. Each of his wines is already an incredible experience in itself, but Le Bout du Clos, disgorged in 2013, is a true masterpiece, unlike anything else. His wines live their own life; their very meaning lies in evolution. Tasting this bottle was a mind‑blowing experience.
The next wine, despite its youth, showed at an absolutely top level. Meursault 2021 from Coche-Dury is a benchmark wine: expressive, complex, and refined in every sense. Its bouquet is both intricate and delicate, and on the palate it is long, precise, and impossible to confuse with anything else.
You could talk forever about the first red from Leroy. Blind, it is impossible to mistake – a great wine with a signature all its own. The aroma of sweet wild berries and almost unimaginable spices eclipsed everything around; on the palate it was fine‑boned, light, and weightless.
We finished with Clos des Grandes Vignes 2019 from Liger-Belair, great in every drop and utterly original. These are the kinds of wines you should cellar and open only with true wine fanatics; otherwise, everything inevitably becomes simpler than it really is.
Text and Photo: Greg Somm
