Text by: Greg Somm
This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.
Italian Old School in all its glory – that's how I would describe Monfortino wine. Slowly and step by step, the Conterno family has created a true Barolo legend. Considering Barolo's youth from a historical perspective, Monfortino can truly be considered one of the oldest wines still being made. Giacomo Conterno's first vintage was in 1920. Until 1974, this wine was made from purchased grapes. After acquiring the Cascina Francia vineyard, Giovanni Conterno continued his father's work, but from his own vineyard in Serralunga. Today, Roberto Conterno runs the family business, and the next generation of winemakers is already on the way.
When I say old school, I mean the academic approach and style of wine that Roberto Conterno strives to maintain. It's slowly changing, but loyalty to family traditions is in his blood. All the wines in our set were made with the active participation of his father, Giovanni, and only one, the 1952, was made by Giacomo himself. And this, I must say, was the most unequivocal demonstration of Nebbiolo's true potential. But let's return to our set.
I felt it was like a time travel back to the era when wine was still largely made using peasant methods. While all the wines were wonderful in their own way, I can't say they had the refinement and balance that can be found today in young Nebbiolo wines from many winemakers, including Roberto's own. Is this a good or a bad thing? The question is largely rhetorical, and everyone will decide for themselves. That's why wine is a living substance that changes not only due to the nuances of a particular vintage, but also due to the evolution of the winemakers' views and sense of wine.
The set was dedicated to the 90s vintages, with one addition: the 2002. And it was the right decision. Despite all the skepticism surrounding the 2002 vintage, I can say that for me, it was the third best wine in the entire collection. The most monumental and balanced was 1999, and that was expected. But what we got from 1952 defies description. It's simply an incredible substance...
