Text by: Greg Somm
This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.
Understanding the great wines of Bordeaux and of California is not like with the hyped-up natural wines. Here you need to have a developed taste and a deep understanding of wine. Someone kicks these wines calling them empty, boring and even meaningless. But all this only speaks of the incompetence of such lovers, and most of all – about their poor taste in wine. It is very easy to get close to such wines if you have a lot of money, but in order to come to their deep meaning, you must first understand their true value. These wines today represent the highest level of complexity and varietal expression that can be reached. In this tasting we compare the best wines of Bordeaux and Napa. The most interesting thing is that they are all made with top French expertise. Another criterion was to compare the best vintages of wines from both regions.
In the pair of Screaming Eagle 2012 and Haut-Brion 2009, Screaming was definitely the best. Its expression and balance were at some unattainable level. I immediately remembered the words of Andrea Franchetti, with whom I once had dinner in Sicily, where we had his Merlot 2011 from Trinoro. The incredible balance and strength of the wine amused me. And when I paid attention to this, Andrea said very correct words, in my opinion. A great wine does not catch an eye with its opulence – it is etched in the memory with its complexity and balance. And Screaming that evening was monumental and chic! Haut-Brion was similar, but more restrained and at the same time with an excellent balance.
In the next pair, Harlan 2009 and Latour 2010, the difference was not so obvious. Latour for me is the standard of Bordeaux. But Harlan with its truffle earthiness reminded me more of Petrus, which was the most surprising. Both wines have ideal balance and depth.
In the third pair, Abreu Las Posadas 2007 and Mouton Rothschild 2009, Napa was again ahead. David Abreu is a genius who now serves as a consultant to the best estates in Napa. He makes very little wine from his vineyards. Las Posadas is located in Howell Mountain. An extra-class wine with a very bright aroma of black berries, licorice and menthol. Velvety and seamless. Mouton, on the contrary, was a little less open in aroma, but in taste it was wonderful, even ideal.
In the final pair, Dominus 1991 and Lafite Rothschild 1986, the odds were already in favor of Lafite. This is an ideal Bordeaux in all respects, which with age becomes something airy and weightless like Burgundy. The only question is that Burgundy at this age will already be well past its peak. Dominus was good, but it lacked balance. Simply a good wine. There was one blind sample in the set, and it was Ausone 1995. The year was obvious, and we identified it. But the slightly more obvious oxidative style led us to Piedmont. In this sense, old Burgundy and Bordeaux behave very similarly.
