Photo courtesy Greg Somm
Text by: Greg Somm
This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a hard-working MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.
The story of second labels has been going on in Bordeaux since the 70s. No one can say exactly what the idea was. Some explain it as an attempt to improve the first wine – the second is supposedly made from slightly worse quality grapes or from young vines. In my opinion, this explanation is out of logic. Just take into account the quality level of the great Bordeaux estates. For me, a more obvious explanation is simply an attempt to limit the volume of the first wine by the existing demand for it.
But everything changes when it comes to the cult wines of California. Napa is of much more interest today than Bordeaux, and here everything is logical. The best wines here today are made by the French, and they do it in a way that they are not allowed to do in France. In this sense, the INAO system is aimed primarily at preserving traditions, not at improving the wines produced.
«The best wines of Napa are not about fruit bombs, that is a thing of the past. The best wines now are about balance and elegance at the limit of concentration».
Two wines from the top estates Sloan – Asterisk and Abreu – Rothwell Hyde – are the brightest representatives of second wines in the concept of the best Californians. Asterisk has incredible depth and volume. The balance is perfect. The aroma of blackcurrant jam mixed with coffee, tobacco and bay leaf. The taste is round and super long. Its style reminded me of Mission Haut Brion, only more intense.
Rothwell Hyde, on the contrary, turned out to be very rich and generous. In the aroma, black berries, balsamic and a whole scattering of spices. In taste – enveloping and also very long. In style – young Latour. The best wines of Napa are not about fruit bombs, that is a thing of the past. The best wines now are about balance and elegance at the limit of concentration.
