Greg Somm: tasting some of the greatest Burgundies in the world

Georges de Vogüe, Roumier, Fourrier, Armand Rousseau, Meo-Camuzet, DRC

Photo courtesy Greg Somm
Text by: Greg Somm

This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a hard-working MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.

 

To understand the emotions that great wines give, you need to taste them in the company of like-minded people. Yesterday was a wonderful evening. A well-chosen set revealed and emphasized the best sides of each wine. 


Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüe Bonnes-Mares 2010 and Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier Bonnes-Mares 2010

In a pair of Bonnes-Mares, Roumier looked more solid. Aromatic and very balanced wine. 2010 is distinguished by a special sweetness in aroma and taste. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüe, on the contrary, was more nervous in taste, but just as attractive.


Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques 2005 and Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques 1999

The pair of Clos St Jacques reminded me of a speed race. At first, Fourrier literally exploded in the glass with aromas of ripe red berries and dried roses. And Rousseau, on the contrary, was very restrained. But after 20 minutes it went explosive. Sweet confectionery aromas coupled with sweet forest red berries and fresh milk – gave Rousseau the weight. It’s a great wine without a doubt.


Emmanuel Rouget Cros Parantoux 2018 and Meo-Camuzet Cros Parantoux

The Cros Parantoux pair fully showed the greatness of this vineyard. Rouget is a genius. In a blind tasting, I would compare this wine to Bizot. The charming aromas of hibiscus, musk and ripe red berries. Meo was similar in aroma, but inferior in taste. The roughness of tannins and excess extraction simplified the wine.


Meo-Camuzet Richebourg Grand Cru and Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2016

In the Richebourg pair – the wine from Meo demonstrated the new level of the estate. Super elegant and long wine. This is a monumental structure and complexity. But still, DRC ultimately surpassed everyone in its class. A wine of fantastic volume and depth. In terms of subtlety, it performed on par with Rouget, which only confirms the level of the Cros Parantoux vineyard.


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