Ode To Modern Burgundy

Modern Burgundy

Text by: Greg Somm

This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.

The most interesting thing about wine is the emotions it evokes, and the people you drink it with. This time, without any arrangements, we have put together such a set that it leaves me thinking – if there can be anything better at all. And of course it could be better, but it will still be different.

Today's Burgundy is a kaleidoscope of geniuses, multiplied by endless evolution and a variety of styles that can hardly be classified into separate groups. In any case, none of these winemakers would want to be classified anywhere. These are all conventions that only ingratiating lovers pay attention to. Each wine is like a story of nature through the prism of human talent. 

Of the entire set, perhaps the most vivid impressions were made by the wines of Cecile Tremlay, Jean-Yves Bizot and Hubert Mongeard. Absolutely different in their essence, but equally charming in their execution. Separately, I would like to note the unexpected subtlety of Meo. The incredibly subtle Brulees brought to mind his Cros Parantoux. It's a pity Russo was corked, his 2003 vintage was wonderful. Bonnes Mares by Christophe Roumier was supreme, but closed.

I'd like to write separately about Vogue wines. This is a heavy but rather boring luxury. Everything seems to be in its place and there is enough of everything, but without the same emotions as from others. Musigny 2012 is a wonderful wine in every sense, but as in the case of their Amoureuses, these two wines are better left to posterity. With appropriate storage, they will turn into real rarities...


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