Pictures by Gleb King. The original White House Cookbook from Archive.org is used in the collages.
Text by: Gleb King
We found the original holiday recipes from the 1880s White House’s cookbook and made wine pairings for them.
Spoiler: we have potato chips with pinot noir down here!
The White House Cookbook is a famous American cookbook first published in 1887, attributed to Fanny Gillette and Hugo Ziemann. It was one of the first comprehensive cookbooks in the United States, offering not only recipes but also guidance on household management, etiquette, and practical tips for running a household. The book was meant to be the guide for all the First Ladies. Thanks to Archive.org, we still can read it online. What’s peculiar – in the late 1880-s, in the White House, there of course were some luxury dishes but there also were plenty of regular, down-to-earth recipes like pork and beans and potato chips. And please keep in mind that those are mentioned in the “New Year Menus” section! So, if the Founding Fathers and Mothers of the nation were humble enough to eat comfy food on holidays, why should we go in a different direction? Here we picked some of the most notable Christmas and New Year’s dishes from the White House Cookbook and found the appropriate wine pairings for them. Enjoy!
Mashed Potatoes, page 192
Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay 2012
Mashed potatoes is more than an ordinary dish – it’s an all-time classic both for regular days and for celebrations. No surprise it’s mentioned in a White House’s cookbook as one of the Christmas side dishes. A full-bodied oaky Chardonnay pairs with rich and creamy dishes like nothing else. The buttery notes in both the wine and the mashed potatoes complement each other, enhancing the dish's flavor.
Lamb Stew, page 143
Chateau Gazin 2014
The physics here is simple. The full-bodied nature of this classic Bordeaux matches the hearty texture of lamb stew, creating a harmonious balance. The ripe fruit flavors contrast with the savory elements of the stew, enhancing the overall taste experience. The wine's tannins interact with the lamb's protein, softening the perception of tannins and enriching the meat's flavor.
Roast Goose, page 86
Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee 1990
The fatty and flavorful meat of roast goose pairs perfectly with the Chateauneuf’s bold and complex structure. The acidity in the wine cuts through the richness, keeping the pairing balanced. In addition, the earthy, gamey qualities of the wine harmonize with the depth of flavor in goose, especially if it's seasoned with herbs or paired with savory accompaniments.
Roast Spare Rib, page 146
Abreu Rothwell Hyde 2012
There’s nothing in this world to complement the pork ribs better than a rich, opulent, Cabernet-driven cuvee from a legendary producer. In this case all the conditions are perfectly met. The White House is a serious social institute but no one can stop the men from eating pork ribs at the end of the day. David Abrew knows it very well too, so he made this perfectly balanced and densely concentrated wine.
Apple Tarts, page 342
Tarlant Cuvee Louis Brut Nature NV
Let the desserts be the desserts and pair them with a good old classy NV Champagne. We don’t need a Blanc de Blancs or Ultra Brut here – a fair amount of dosage and a Bonnie-Clyde couple of Chardonnay and Pinot will do the trick perfectly. Mousse counterbalances the sweetness and the bread crust note echoes with fresh pastry doughy tones.
Birds' Nest Pudding, page 387
Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Rose 2008
Another dessert-sparkling pairing here, but much, much more sophisticated. The vintage recipe of the bird’s nests is taken straightly from Helen Herron Taft’s family cookbook. Of course it needs a proper amount of respect. Traditional bird’s nest pudding is an old-fashioned dessert made with apples, a soft crust or batter, and a rich, sweet sauce like custard or syrup. The Billecart-Salmon’s subtle complexity mirrors the pudding's layers of flavor, creating a harmonious and gracious pairing.
Saratoga Chips, page 193
Frederic Cossard Domaine de Chassorney Pommard 2022
Pinot noir and chips? On the New Year? Can this be possible? Of course yes if you apply a little wit and creativity to your festive dinner. Many sommeliers actually like to pair the rustic and powerful Pinots like Pommard with comfy food snacks. And the Saratoga chips are just so. The crust and the saltiness on the one side and the gamy-fruity nature of Pinot on the other. Just try it. Does anybody have a clue why the White House menu has the chips in it? Right, because they’re awesome!
Boston Pork and Beans, page 149
Dominio de Pingus Flor de Pingus 2021
Tempranillo is the best option here. Pork and beans is a hearty, sweet-savory and smoky dish, due to the inclusion of pork and molasses or brown sugar. The richness of Flor de Pingus complements this depth of flavor. This combination offers a luxurious twist to a traditional comfort food meal. And yes, according to the White House, pork and beans are ok for Christmas and New Year.
Lemon Pie, page 328
Jean-Pierre Robinot Les Vignes de l'Ange Fetembulles 2022
Here we’ll try to pair one more dessert with one more sparkling but in this case the pairing is kind of unordinary. The natural white fizzy wine with tons of nutmeg, green apples and lemons on the nose will play surprisingly well. When we step on the side of natural wines, there’s a whole new field for experiments regarding the food pairings, so, just give it a try!
Mince Pie, page 338
Taylor Fladgate "Very Old Single Harvest” Port 1966
A classic mince pie is a traditional British pastry typically enjoyed during the Christmas season. It is a small, round pie filled with mincemeat, a rich mixture of dried fruits, spices, and sometimes alcohol like brandy or rum. Despite its name, modern mincemeat rarely contains meat and is primarily sweet. BUT here in the book, we have the classic meaty recipe with the sweetness on the other side. So, the dry red would be too acidic on the raisins’ sweetness background. What to pick then? We need something special – tannic and sweet. Like Port. This pairing would be the revelation.
