Text by: Greg Somm
This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.
Someone will say that these wines do not vibrate, are too boring and uninteresting. Yes, there are such “advanced” consumers. Well, let them drink their lemonades. Wine is wonderful in its diversity. It was interesting to compare wines from three vineyards that are located in one part of the village of Vosne-Romanee, and all border on one vineyard – Richebourg. At the moment only two producers make wine from the Cros Parantoux vineyard – Méo Camuzet and Emmanuel Rouget. There are many more from Les Brulees and Richebourg. But nevertheless, most of the owners are the same.
The first set was the 2018 Cros Parantoux. The terroir was felt 100%. Concentration in aroma and taste were perfect. Then came Les Brûlées 2017. And it was fantastic. Perfect development and maturity. The vintage matters. 2017 is perfect now. In the third pair – Richebourg 2013, the best was the wine from AF Gros. Although you don’t expect much from it today, the wine was very perfumed and voluminous. But the wine from Anne Gros was slightly oxidized and did not show all its diversity.
In the 2014 pair – Aux Brûlées was the best. The perfect embodiment of Vosne-Romanee. As for Richebourg from Thibaut Liger-Belair, excessive rusticity and evolution were not on its side. And then there was a fairytale. Richebourg from Jean Grivot is the quintessence of this vineyard. Even such a complex vintage could not overshadow it. Well, Cros Parantoux by Emmanuel Rouget is a wine that can be safely placed on the same level with the best wines of Vosne-Romanée from the Grand Cru vineyards. A great sound of the variety.
