Text by: Greg Somm
This column is written by The Gold Certified ASI Sommelier, Chef-sommelier of WineHall Company and a MS Diploma Candidate, Greg Somm.
Tasting wines from two great terroirs is always exciting. At least because – there is an opportunity to compare wines of the same vintages in the context of the 2000s. This allows you to look at the style of wines from a 15-20-year distance. The conclusions were ambiguous:
1. Clos de Tart wines from the era of Sylvain Pitiot are probably the classics of Burgundy with a slight deviation. They age very unevenly. In all vintages there are shades of funky forest foliage and very brightly – dried flowers. If you like this kind of evolution, then this is your choice. Personally, I lacked overall harmony, and somewhere the evolution of fruit aromas. The best for me was 2010. Evolution in it only began to add light tertiary shades, there were still many ripe red berries, and in general the wine was very beautiful. 2009, on the contrary, seemed torn apart, despite the fact that the vintage was very good. Perhaps there was something wrong with the bottle. 2002 turned out to be very academic and overdeveloped. But now was the time to drink it.
2. Musigny wines from Jacques Prieur, after this tasting, now represent a lottery for me. Perhaps this is the result of the trends of that period in Burgundy – for high extraction and concentration, but as the tasting showed, those ones age very strangely and unpredictably. 2010 from magnum was not just young, it was closed and opened up reluctantly. There were powerful tannins in the taste and it was impossible to feel the greatness of Musigny in it. But what a pleasure it was to drink 2009! This was a real thrill from aged Burgundy. Dry red and black berries, peonies, dry roses, a little mushrooms, red pepper and rotten leaves. The taste, although thick, has an ideal balance. But 2002 was a complete letdown, even a disappointment. Just an old Burgundy wine, of which there are many.
3. A great experience was the sample from Faiveley. Erwan Faiveley in my opinion makes some of the most beautiful and classic wines in Burgundy. They do not have the screaming aromas of natural wines, but they have the nerve.
