Reviews — Burgundy

Domaine David Duband is one of Burgundy’s most convincing modern success stories: a producer who began with family vineyards in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and built a portfolio that now stretches from fresh, site-driven Chardonnay to Grand Cru Pinot Noir in Charmes-Chambertin and Clos de Vougeot. The wines currently available at Symbolic Wines offer a particularly clear view of that progression—from the deceptively serious 2023 Coteaux Bourguignons Blanc to 2023 Grand Crus that show just how far Duband’s precise, whole-cluster style can travel.

Bouchard Père & Fils is one of those names that carries Burgundy history in the same breath as Burgundy authority. Founded in 1731 and now reshaped under Artémis Domaines, the house remains a major reference point for grand cru Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with holdings that still matter not just because of scale, but because of the clarity of the wines themselves.

Few white‑wine producers inspire the kind of obsessive loyalty that Jean‑Marie Guffens does, and our latest arrivals at Symbolic Wines—four recent vintages under the Guffens‑Heynen label—show exactly why. From a “simple” Bourgogne Blanc built out of young vines and declassified top juice to a micro‑cuvée that distills the character of the Chavigne slope, each of these wines is rooted in specific, documented vineyard and cellar decisions rather than vague marketing stories.

For more than four centuries, the Béru family has been the custodian of this historic Chablis estate. Once entirely sustained by its vineyards, the property suffered a devastating blow in the early 1900s when phylloxera destroyed all its vines, forcing wine production to cease for decades.