Reviews — Wine Culture

Champagne is often discussed through familiar oppositions: Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noirs, Côte des Blancs or Montagne de Reims. Yet the most revealing comparison is not always between regions or grape varieties. Sometimes it is between two producers who use the language of precision, place, and individuality in entirely different ways.

For more than four centuries, the Béru family has been the custodian of this historic Chablis estate. Once entirely sustained by its vineyards, the property suffered a devastating blow in the early 1900s when phylloxera destroyed all its vines, forcing wine production to cease for decades.