The finest treat for a true perfectionist is a classic French restaurant with impeccable service, cuisine, and wine. Let it be a touch old-school, even vintage in some ways—what matters is that its atmosphere is unmatched for leisurely relaxation and savoring the best wines in their class!
I won't delve into "wine communism"—those in the know will get it. I'll simply restate a fundamental truth: France's top restaurants make their money on wine, not food. And for that, you need the holy trinity: the Chef, the Sommelier, and the Maître d'hôtel. The Chef delivers stellar cuisine. The Sommelier curates an outstanding list. And the Maître ensures flawless service. Without them, the restaurant has no viable business.
We explored classics crafted by master vintners.
The Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Enseigneres’ 2020 from Coche-Dury is a supremely delicate wine, with a beautifully refined entry and fantastic creaminess on the finish. Terroir expression is when you sense not the winemaker's style, but the vineyard's subtle nuances. And Raphaël is a worthy successor to the family traditions.
The same can be said of the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’ 2012 from Christophe Roumier. His wines brim with endless potential, and the 2012 is just beginning to unfold. The aroma is vividly expressive, with perfect balance on the palate.
And for the finale, the finest wine from Emmanuel Reynaud: Rayas 2012. Stylistically Burgundian, yet genetically a perfect expression of Grenache! It reminded me of the wines from Louis-Michel Liger-Belair.
Text and Photo: Greg Somm
