Columns — Fine Wine

William Kelley’s path from Oxford tasting rooms to his own domaine in Burgundy says a lot about how top wines are made today. His story is not only about talent and terroir, but about how deeply a person can absorb the accumulated knowledge of a region and turn it into something new without losing respect for its classics.

To truly understand wine, you have to drink it – ideally in the company of fellow explorers just as curious as you are. This time, without any prior agreement, the evening turned into a Chambolle-Musigny focus around the wines of Nicolas Groffier, an undeniably gifted winemaker who has shaped a style entirely his own.

Le Pin may be one of Bordeaux’s youngest blue‑chip wines, but its story – from improvised barrel fermentations to Robert Parker‑driven cult status – has already become modern legend. A vertical tasting only confirmed that this tiny Pomerol remains a meticulous, no‑compromise benchmark with no truly “bad” vintages, only badly stored bottles.

The genius and craftsmanship of Jean-Yves Bizot defy understanding: his wines evolve and change from vintage to vintage, yet they always retain their unmistakable, unique style. His feeling for wine is as complex an idea as time itself – or rather, its passage. And just when we manage to grasp even a fraction of the meaning of his wines, they slip away and move ahead, just like time. At least, these are my impressions from his wines and from meeting Jean-Yves during a visit to his domaine many years ago.