Columns — Fine Wine

There are bottles that ask to be admired, and bottles that ask to be listened to. Domaine de la Grand’Cour Fleurie “Le Clos” 2014 belongs firmly in the second category: a Cru Beaujolais that has moved beyond simple charm and into something more layered, more resonant, and much more interesting to drink with time in the glass. This is the kind of wine that reminds you why Fleurie, at its best, can sit comfortably at a table with far more famous names.

William Kelley’s path from Oxford tasting rooms to his own domaine in Burgundy says a lot about how top wines are made today. His story is not only about talent and terroir, but about how deeply a person can absorb the accumulated knowledge of a region and turn it into something new without losing respect for its classics.

To truly understand wine, you have to drink it – ideally in the company of fellow explorers just as curious as you are. This time, without any prior agreement, the evening turned into a Chambolle-Musigny focus around the wines of Nicolas Groffier, an undeniably gifted winemaker who has shaped a style entirely his own.

Le Pin may be one of Bordeaux’s youngest blue‑chip wines, but its story – from improvised barrel fermentations to Robert Parker‑driven cult status – has already become modern legend. A vertical tasting only confirmed that this tiny Pomerol remains a meticulous, no‑compromise benchmark with no truly “bad” vintages, only badly stored bottles.