Columns — Terroir

William Kelley’s path from Oxford tasting rooms to his own domaine in Burgundy says a lot about how top wines are made today. His story is not only about talent and terroir, but about how deeply a person can absorb the accumulated knowledge of a region and turn it into something new without losing respect for its classics.

Using this flight as an example, I’d like to reflect on the evolution of wine, its balance, and its terroir‑driven character. Today, you can expect almost anything from white Burgundy: a reductive style, a rich and opulent expression, or even an oxidative‑reductive approach reminiscent of Jura. But a mineral, limestone‑driven profile has become much rarer, especially in Meursault.

Indulge in perfection at classic French restaurants: impeccable service, cuisine, and elite wines like Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Enseigneres’ 2020 Coche-Dury (silky terroir delight), Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’ 2012 Roumier (expressive balance), and Rayas 2012 Reynaud (Burgundian Grenache mastery). Top spots profit on wine via Chef, Sommelier, Maître d'hôtel. For Burgundy aficionados!

Château Rayas by the Reynaud family — one of the world’s most distinctive and polarizing wines. Why does aged Rayas surpass any Burgundy, while even a 20-year-old vintage delivers extraordinary depth? Reflections on true terroir, vineyard and cellar microbiology, Emmanuel Reynaud’s undeniable talent, and why Rayas deserves its own appellation. Tasting notes on the incomparable 1988 and magnificent young vintages — an unforgettable fine wine experience.